The late Auberon Waugh, a hugely entertaining snob of the first order, wrote in a column decades ago that he loved the way the juxtaposition of cod wars and potato blight had conspired to make that great British culinary invention, fish and chips, a rarity.
That comment told you quite a lot about the man making it. But if his experience of fish and chips had been restricted to London, and most of all those chippies in the West End that even proclaimed in lights that they served the aforementioned "great British invention", I'd have been inclined to sympathise with him.
For proper fish and chips - and they exist just as surely as good coquilles St Jacques or a great plateau de fruits de mer - you need to head north. But how far north?
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